The leaves are usually large and imposing, often lobed or deeply cut, and may be more or less pinnate. They can also be oval, spear-shaped, or in many other possible shape variations. The leaves are borne alternately on the stem. A quality of philodendrons is that they do not have a single type of leaf on the same plant. Instead, they have juvenile leaves and adult leaves, which can be drastically different from one another. The leaves of seedling philodendrons are usually heart-shaped early in the life of the plant. But after it has matured past the seedling stage, the leaves will acquire the typical juvenile leaf's shape and size. Later in the philodendron's life, it starts producing adult leaves, a process called metamorphosis. Most philodendrons go through metamorphosis gradually; there is no immediately distinct difference between juvenile and adult leaves. Aside from being typically much bigger than the juvenile leaves, the shape of adult leaves can be significantly different. In fact, considerable taxonomic difficulty has occurred in the past due to these differences, causing juvenile and adult plants to mistakenly be classified as different species. Philodendrons also produce cataphylls, which are modified leaves that surround and protect the newly forming leaves. Cataphylls are usually green, leaf-like, and rigid while they are protecting the leaf. In some species, they can even be rather succulent. Once the leaf has been fully formed, the cataphyll usually remains attached where the stem and base of the leaf meet. In philodendrons, cataphylls typically fall into two categories: deciduous and persistent types. Philodendrons have both aerial and subterranean roots. The aerial roots occur in many shapes and sizes and originate from most of the plant's nodes or occasionally from an internode. The size and number of aerial roots per node depends on the presence of a suitable substrate for the roots to attach themselves.
Phylodendro Ondulado Care
Phylodendro Hederaceum



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How to Care for the Plant
Water
Typically water once every 10 days is optimal as it meets the watering requirements of the philodendron without risking root rot. As long as the top two inches of the soil feel slightly dry then give the soil a good soak and the philodendron should thrive.
Pruning
Cut off the longest, oldest stems, or any stems that are leggy or have a lot of yellowing or dead leaves. In some cases, very old stems may be completely leafless. Make cuts using a sharp, sterile knife, scissors, or pruning shears, cutting where the stem meets the main part of the plant.
Fertilizer
SUSTENANCE FOR PHILODENDRONS: Nitrogen fertilizer is a liquid plant food that provides philodendron support. 3-1-2 miracle ratio delivers nutrients to soil and roots, optimizing the growth of live plants.
Temperature
Philodendron grow well in normal household temperatures, between 70°-80ºF during the day and above 55º F at night.
Container
The non-climbing types have an upright growth habit and make for excellent foliage plants in containers.
Additional
A multitude of Philodendron species exist. These plants contains insoluble calcium oxalate crystals similar to other plants in the Araceae family. Chewing or biting into this plant will release these crystals causing tissue penetration and irritation the mouth and GI tract.
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